![]() 3 miserable days for him because he lied about his experience to get the job and me and two other guys tore him a new *** for trying to get extra money on the hour. LOL! <<< I've had a rookie ask me that before.Īnother guy who lasted 3 days kept going to the breaker panel to shut the gas off to the gas water heater in the basement. I should of asked him if his electric water heater had a gas shutoff. Customer probably was thinking it was my first day on the job. Lessoned learned but I lost a couple hours on that job in total. It was the fine dust on a relatively new piece of sandcloth associated with the wipe rag I use to wipe off excess solder and flux from the piping. My flux wasn't the problem, it wasn't separating in the tin. ![]() Had somebody bring me new sandcloth, new wipe rag, new tin of flux, new flux brush before I made any more attempts to solder. Absolutely could not get copper to solder to brass, always leaked. Removed the main valve which was a gate valve and tried to sweat in a new ball valve. The solder joints weren't affected on the heater replacement, but the next solder job I did at another house gave me problems, bad ones. This fine flour dust embedded into my open mesh sandcloth when I was working on the job replacing the water heater. a real fine dust of flour ends up on everything throughout this building. Pizza dough is hand made at this restaurant. It takes 3/4 " of solder to fill a 3/4" fitting, so on and so forth.Here's a little issue I encountered last week at a restaurant: I have had joints refuse to break loose even with a turbo torch and mapp gas and putting plenty of flux on to help break it loose. It will take more heat to unsolder a joint. Solder is engineered to be heated only once. It will look like a backward horseshoe print inside the pipe. Water flowing over this ridge if not removed causes the water to swirl like an undertow in a river and it will actually eat through the pipe. That's what the copper association called it when they came to Purdue for a seminar years ago. It also causes a phenomenon called hydraulic jump. After you cut a piece of pipe with a tubing cutter a sharp ridge will be at the end inside. this IS very important! Home depot sells a yellow plastic handled reaming tool for about six bucks. I sure hope you are reaming the tubing after it has been cut. We use a flux called NO CORRODE, it seems to work good. Maybe what I'm using is just fine but I prefer to work with the best when possible.Īlso, what works for a brush? I've been using acid brushes but I seem to melt them quickly if I go back over a joint with flux to clean it up a bit. Just using Oatey as an example, what's the difference between their paste flux and their tinning flux? Different purposes? Again, any suggestions on flux? Works ok once it's applied but I'd prefer an easier application. This makes it hard to get out of the tin with a brush. I don't like it because it seems much harder than necessary. I have been using Oatey #95 tinning flux. Just general copper fittings and pipe for around the house. ![]() The tinning flux is good, and a little easier to use, but if you want a really neat looking joint, 5 may be better as the solder (tin part of the 95) will leave solder wherever it touches and is hard to wipe off once heated. ![]() ![]() I'm looking for suggestions on what brand/part number to use for both. You can use either of them to solder copper pipe (and some other metals). I just ran out of solder and I'm not liking the flux I have. Getting better every time at sweating copper. I'm a weekend warrior with plumbing around the house and helping friend out. ![]()
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